In Bruges, Part One

DSC_0069

Bruges, Belgium—a city synonymous with chocolate and beer.  No surprise, then, that it makes my short list of favorite places on the planet. . . a place that I only discovered last week.

Bruges is perched in the northwest corner of Belgium, and much of its DSC_0002 character has been shaped by its canals and the fact that it has long been a port city and center of trade.  (The port of Bruges is Zeebrugge—“the Bruges Sea” I suppose.)  The wealth that trade brought to Bruges is clear in the lavish Flemish DSC_0053medieval-style architecture that is everywhere on display.

The beauty of Bruges, and its relatively compact size, make it a perfect city for a weekend of “strolling.”  My family is very good at “meandering” through towns—strolling, seeing, nibbling, photographing—we’ve raised it to an art form. . . and Bruges is the perfect town to practice that art.  It has the beauty of its intact medieval architecture, the added drama and elegance of its winding canals, the warm and rich ecstasy of waffles and chocolate spilling out of its storefronts, the intricate eye-candy of its lace shop windows, and the tired traveler’s respite of its lovely Belgian beer.  (It’s almost painful to write this while Bruges is still so fresh in my memory–if I had a teleporting machine, I’d drop my keyboard and head back right now!)

We drove into the city relying on our GPS to guide us, which it did: straight through the heart of town and market square and down some streets that might not have even been open to cars—but still, we drove through. DSC_1023  The sea of people parted for us, and we cruised through the heart of town at approximately 3 miles an hour.  Probably not the most appropriate route to take us to our hotel, but it gave us the opportunity to see what was around us in the Old Town.

We stayed at Anselmus Hotel—a small hotel that is located in the anselmus heart of Bruges.  It dates back to the 17th century and was the home of the scientist  Anselmus Boetius De Bood.  It was quaint and comfortable, and the owners were lovely people.  Our room was a couple of flights up—a large space that could fit our whole family—the ceiling was crisscrossed by exposed beams and the stairs up to the room were astonishingly narrow.  Outrageously narrow.  (Not in width of the staircase, but each step was only about 3 inches deep, requiring a funny side step or tiptoe technique to navigate.)  Anselmus must have kept magical medieval elves as his servants and housed them in this attic, because no human foot could fit on these stairs.  If this had been the Holiday Inn, I’d call these stairs treacherous.  But it wasn’t.  It was Anselmus Hotel in the Old Town of Bruges, which somehow changes things.  This staircase was charming.  Or maybe it was a sobriety test, a reminder that this was a respectable hotel—can’t stay here unless you have your wits about you.  At least, can’t make it all the way to your room unless you have your wits about you.

And so we ventured out into the town, resolving to keep our wits about us.

At first, that was easy.  We wandered the town and soaked up the general atmosphere.

DSC_0009

DSC_0015DSC_1013

 

We watched the boats of tourists navigate the canals, we “oooohed and ahhhhhed” at the architecture, and we jumped out of the way of horses and carriages  and also the vintage cars that were holding a rally through the old town that Saturday.

DSC_1014

DSC_0078

DSC_0076

 

 

 

 

 

(Sadly, I have no photos of those beautiful vintage cars– I was too busy gawking or jumping to the sidewalk as they sporadically zipped past.)

So far, Bruges was beautiful and my wits were intact.  But that was all about to change.

DSC_0104I had unshakable confidence in my ability to tipple Belgian beer in small quantities.  My ability to show restraint at chocolate shops, however, was about to be strained.

More on that, and some recommendations of sights to see and places to eat, in Part Two– stay tuned.

 

Friday in the Frame: Kapellbrucke (Chapel Bridge)

Lucerne, Switzerland

DSC_0129 - Copy

There are some places that make you remember what it feels like to really breathe.  For me, Switzerland is one of those places.  It’s crisp, it’s open, it’s beautiful.  In Lucerne, you are surrounded by glorious mountains, but you never feel landlocked.  The sky above is expansive and feels even more so because it is reflected in the clear lake water.  The mood is tranquil, even though you are surrounded by other tourists.

DSC_0151

Friday seems like an appropriate day to be writing about bridges and breathing.  Sometimes Friday is that transition point out of a busy week and into a relaxing weekend, that point where you remember to breathe and look out at the world around you.

How long has it been since you lifted your head from that pile of papers on your desk or whatever other concerns you were juggling?  If it’s been a while, then breathe deep–it’s Friday!  Here are some more photos of Lucerne to get your weekend started.

DSC_0112 - Copy DSC_0138 DSC_0148 DSC_0223

 

 

Prague’s Golem, retold

golem picmonkey


There are things that go bump in the night, and, then again, there are things that go bump in our psyches and rattle around with such fury that they can’t be quelled by any night light. In fact, at some point and in the full light of day, they will trip from our tongues or scurry across the pages of our books—out into the world, across eras, and even across cultures. These monsters may prove themselves useful to us, even noble at times—our defenders from the monsters that show up at our doors in human flesh– but they are problematic nonetheless. They are never really controllable.

To wit—the golem.

Long before Prague was Prague, “the Golem” began rattling around our psyches as a shadowy form in Hebrew lore. The word references an unshaped form, or possibly an unrefined person—someone who is clumsy. A clod.

Yes, a clod of dirt and dust . . . like Adam before Eden. But without the divine breath, the breath of life.

So, how did this golem come to be animated?  Scholars can point to moments in the Talmud or the Hebrew Book of Formation when a golem was brought to life by use of a shem—a name of God. If one of the names of God was inscribed on paper and placed in the mouth of the mud man, or perhaps inscribed upon its forehead, then the golem became animated.

Something to remember: the name of God represented the reality and power of God. To invoke God’s name meant to invoke a truth and a power beyond any a mortal could/should wield. But this doesn’t stop mortals from prying in business beyond their wisdom, does it? (The atom bomb comes to mind.)

Prague
Prague

And so, tales of the golem took foot like so many clay men, trodding the shadows but living beyond a world they could understand or be understood in. Glimpses were reported in tales from Poland, Russia, Germany (at the hands of Jakob Grimm), and Prague.

Prague. There was a city ripe for things that go bump and holy incantations both. In 16th century Prague, these elements mixed to create a famous tale in which the golem was a being animated to protect the Jewish ghetto from oppressors.

Although tales of the golem had been around centuries before, this famous tale of the golem was created by  Rabbi  Yehudah Levi ben Betzalel (aka, Rabbi Loew) .   Rabbi Loew had his reasons: anti-Semitic attacks were a fact of life, and rumors abounded that a local priest was about to launch a new accusation at the Jewish community in Prague.  They were to be wrongly accused of ritual murder of Christian children.  To avert this disastrous situation, Rabbi Loew formed his golem from the mud of the Vltava River and, in a god-like act, placed life into its mouth with the Shem Hameforash.

The golem was named Joseph, and he served as the protector of the Jewish Quarter. He was a hero, but he was also a monster–human-like, but not human.  Created from the machinations of a man who, though holy, was less than God.  And what happens when man meddles with the power of God?  The story always turns dark.

Attic view of the Old Jewish Cemetery in Prague
Attic view of the Old Jewish Cemetery in Prague

The golem grew stronger and stronger as time passed, and more violent too.  He couldn’t be controlled.  And so, the shem had to be removed from his mouth and the noble monster had to be “decommissioned.”  The clay figure was locked away in the attic.

If you are starting to think that Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein’s monster has eerie undertones of the golem, then I agree 100%.  Sure, Rabbi Loew had more noble intentions than Dr. Frankenstein, but nobody ever really controls these monsters once they come to life.  And no one really understands them, either.  There is something poignant and lonely about these beings–despite the danger and the grotesque qualities they possess, they are almost us.  Oddly, they are better than us in moments–they have the physical power to protect and they have remarkable innocence despite their power.   Until the story turns.  But it turns, at least in part, because of the violent world they must confront.

Life is complicated, no?

And, having trod through the ages– from hints in the Garden of Eden, to full power in 16th century Prague, to the quintessential monster of British horror tales–the golem now prowls the streets of modern America in our dime store comics.  Remember The Thing?

The Thing, copyright Marvel Comics
The Thing, copyright Marvel Comics

He was a rock-man.  The character’s real name was Benjamin Jakob Grimm (hello!), and he was a Jewish New Yorker.   Ben Grimm was a test pilot turned astronaut who was transformed by cosmic radiation.  Bummer.  Of course, he’s a good guy (like the golem Joseph), but he does have a temper (like Joseph).  Uncontrollable?  Not necessarily, but the golem influence is undeniably strong here.  In fact, there is apparently even one story line in which Benjamin Grimm reanimates the dead body of an innocent neighbor by reciting a Shem or a Jewish prayer.

We’ve heard this tale before–at different times, in different places, for different cultures and eras–but it never fails to catch our attention.  How could it?  It’s one of those stories that looks outward: to a world we live in that’s dangerous, and where we need protectors from violent forces (forces that are usually all too human themselves).  But it also looks inward at human nature as a story of incurable meddlers:  we dabble in things when we think we have a little technical knowhow, but we are radically lacking in the wisdom to wield the power that knowhow brings.  (It’s the classic tale of hubris, and it’s our specialty as a species.)

Golem Statue, Prague
Golem Statue, Prague

Prague claims the golem as one of its famous tales, and it should–that history is rich and deep.  But we all know that the golem didn’t stay locked in that attic in Prague.

No, it’s afoot and will always be.  Told and retold, as long as there is mud and there are meddlers.