A Week in Provence: La Portail, St. Saturnin-les-Apts

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A home in the ancient walls of the city.

 

Every child dreams of living in a castle or some old fortress–the romance, the glory, the adventure.  THE ADVENTURE! My family and I are twice blessed on this count.  If you’ve followed my blog for long, you know that we live in a unique, charming, and slightly spooky “castle house” in Germany.  And during my children’s Easter break, we packed our bags and drove to Provence for a week’s vacation in another citadel on a hill:  La Portail, in St. Saturnin-les-Apts, France, nestled in the lovely Luberon mountains of Provence.balc

It was a stroke of incredibly good fortune that we spent a week in Provence in April.  Good fortune . . . and kind friends with a vacation home there.  They offered us their home in the ancient city walls for the week, and the home and the town were both magnificent!  La Portail (the name of the house) is nestled in the ramparts of the ancient city, and it sits close to the top of the hill, offering spectacular views of the valley below:

 

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The house was elegant and spacious, and full of old world charm.  But before we could settle into the house, we had to find it!

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Arriving in town, we twisted our way through the winding streets, looking for the old city walls that would shelter us in the week ahead  and getting the general lay of the land.  St. Saturnin is a small town, and that’s a good thing.  It has beauty, charm, magnificent views and architectural details, and several fantastic bakeries and restaurants.  Winding through the streets of St. Saturnin was an adventure in itself.

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An arrow slit in a castle wall.

It didn’t take long for us to find “our house,” and we were enamored the minute we stepped over the threshold.     The main door opens into a grand living room–stone walls, exposed beams, a grand piano–so beautiful.  But that’s not what caught my son’s eyes.    By this door, there was an arrow slit–a reminder that this had once been an ancient defensive wall, and this house sits at the gate of that wall.  At one time, someone would have stood guard here and, when necessary, mounted a defense against unfriendly forces.  Being on vacation we were happy to find it glassed in and no longer needed for that original purpose.  As if to offer extra reassurance that we wouldn’t need to defend ourselves from marauders on this trip, a small spider had spun his dainty web over a corner of the glass.  It was a whimsical and comforting touch.

Sword standing at the ready.
Sword standing at the ready.

But, just in case, there was a sword standing at the ready by the other door.  (The sort of detail that I might have missed, but my children picked up on immediately!)

In recent weeks, I’ve posted many photos from Provence, and I will post more (along with some insights about the area) in the weeks ahead.  For today, I’ll simply leave you with a few photos of this lovely home, and views from around town.   And a heartfelt thank you to Beatrice for opening her home to us–it was so gracious, and we had a wonderful vacation!

 

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bed piano 2 small stairs

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Another side of the house in the old city walls: with two balconies and magnificent views.

 

The road to redemption, St. Saturnin, France
The road to redemption, St. Saturnin, France

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Happy Mother’s Day!

A flower for you!
A flower for you!

 

Because the distances we travel are not only through space, they are also through time.  Here’s a flower from my son, 10 years ago–still fresh and still heartfelt.  Happy Mother’s Day!

 

 

 

Achtung! Es ist Hexennacht!

DSC_0019And, as my dog knows, this means trouble!

Tomorrow is May 1st, and May Day is still celebrated in Germany (and most of Europe, as best I can tell).  The beginning of May is observed with a Tanz in den Mai (“dance in to May”)– streets fairs, maypoles, festivities.  Schools are out and celebrations are afoot.  And so, you know, is mischief.

The evening of April 30th is Hexennacht (Witches’ Night), and tricksters are out in force.  We’ve been told to hide our trash and recycling cans, bring in our potted plants, and garage our cars (really?  have you seen the state of my garage?)

I will try to do all of the above, and hope that the tricksters are kept at bay by rainshowers.  But still, I’ll brace for ketchup, mustard, and toilet paper on my house or cars or shrubbery.  Our neighborhood is quiet, but not lacking in youthful tricksters!

The origin of this mischief lies in medieval and pagan lore.  The Queen of Spring was set to enter the county come May 1st, but evil ghosts and spirits (and their cold and dark) would try to keep her at bay. (And barring any success at that, apparently they liked to toilet paper cars and turn over garbage cans to show their displeasure.)

©2014 Ann G. Stephenson
©2014 Ann G. Stephenson