Up the Hill, Across the Town: Sacre Coeur, Montmartre, Paris

As seen from the roof of the Musee d'Orsay
As seen from the roof of the Musee d’Orsay

The Basilica of the Sacre Coeur, in Montmartre, is one of the most recognizable landmarks in Paris.  This is a little surprising because it is one of the newer landmarks in the city, at just over 100 years old.  (Of course, the same can be said of the Eiffel Tower, which is unquestionably the most recognizable landmark in the city.)  On a recent visit to Paris, I snapped a photo (above) of the grand church from the roof of the Musee d’Orsay–quite a distance away, but there’s the lovely church, majestic atop the hill of Montmartre, demanding to be noticed.

We didn’t make it up the hill to visit Montmartre on this trip, but just looking across the city toward the hill brought back memories of a trip in 2008 when we climbed the stairs of Montmartre with the kids (very young then) and wandered the area.  I recall lots of artists’ stalls, lots of tourists, musicians, and stunning views out over the city.  I also remember setting our young son loose to chase pigeons in one open square, in hopes that he could run some energy out while the rest of us just sat and soaked up the atmosphere.  It was a great place to just hang out and enjoy an afternoon.

Climbing the stairs of Montmartre, 2008
Climbing the stairs of Montmartre, 2008
A stunning photo--not taken by me.  Creative Commons image, "La Basilique du Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre vue de la Tour Saint-Jacques, Paris août 2014" by Yann Caradec from Paris, France - La Basilique du Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre vue de la Tour Saint-Jacques. Licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons - https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:La_Basilique_du_Sacr%C3%A9-C%C5%93ur_de_Montmartre_vue_de_la_Tour_Saint-Jacques,_Paris_ao%C3%BBt_2014.jpg#/media/File:La_Basilique_du_Sacr%C3%A9-C%C5%93ur_de_Montmartre_vue_de_la_Tour_Saint-Jacques,_Paris_ao%C3%BBt_2014.jpg
A stunning photo–not taken by me. Creative Commons image, “La Basilique du Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre vue de la Tour Saint-Jacques, Paris août 2014” by Yann Caradec, Paris, France
Montmartre has an artistic vibe.
Montmartre has an artistic vibe.

 

It's also a good place to let the kids run their energy out!
It’s also a good place to let the kids run their energy out!

 

 

 

 

 

 

I had a lot of fun getting up close and personal with the other sights of Paris this trip . . .but every now and again, I’d look up and see the Sacre Coeur hovering in the distance.  She might have been far up the hill and across the town, but she wasn’t going to let me forget her.

Maybe next visit we’ll drop in on her again.

 

 

Friday in the Frame: Pont Neuf, Paris

The Pont Neuf, Paris.  June 2015
The Pont Neuf, Paris. June 2015

The Pont Neuf (“New Bridge”) is the oldest standing bridge in Paris.  How’s that for a paradox?  It made sense at one time . . . a long, long time ago.   It was built in the late 1500’s/early 1600’s– and still looks spry for an old girl.  Yes, there have been nips and tucks, but the bone structure remains the same as far as I know.

If the structure of the bridge is little changed by time, what about the “life” and function of the bridge?   It’s always held a central role in the city, but it was once a very dangerous place, replete with thieves and murderers.   In fact, it was replete with everything: vendors, performers, prostitutes, con artists, pickpockets, artists, families . . .all the best and worst of Paris.  It was the best of mimes, it was the worst of mimes.  (Oh, so sorry–I didn’t want to say it, but I couldn’t stop myself.)

I remember reading (somewhere) that the Pont Neuf once had its own gallows right there on the bridge.  That’s hard to imagine today, when you see her cleaned up and looking stunning, but I’d wager that at least a few of those surly pickpockets are still around.  We haven’t changed that much over time, and, as this bridge reminds us, “everything old is neuf again.”

 

The Personalities of Paris

(an abbreviated list in photos)

Tuileries, looking toward the Louvre
Tuileries, looking toward the Louvre

Two weeks ago, we spent three nights in Paris and stayed at small hotel in the Tuileries area.  It was a fantastic area in a fantastic city.  (Was it Audrey Hepburn who said that Paris is always a good idea?  Absolutely right!)

Paris is many things in the summer:  the city of light; a banquet spread over a city-width of streets;  a rock concert moshpit ;  and a beautiful stroll.

The City of Light
The City of Light
A Banquet– Laduree on the Left Bank, since 1862

 

At the Louvre--is that the Mona Lisa or Mick Jagger? Am I in a moshpit or museum?
At the Louvre–is that the Mona Lisa or Mick Jagger? Am I in a moshpit or museum?
Maybe the best of Paris:  the Tuilieries
Maybe the best of Paris: the Tuilieries. Perfect for a stroll, a sit, a sail . . .

In the weeks ahead, and when time allows, I’ll take you more in depth into some of our favorite bits of Paris.  Until then, à bientôt! (See you soon!)