Halloween: This Old House

The house in Germany:  although we’ve packed up and left it, it hasn’t left us.

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Images of autumn and Halloween are starting to flood the internet, and I’m sitting here in Florida thinking that it’s still too hot to plant pansies, wear a sweater, or start the full-on (and often pumpkin inspired) baking frenzy that I feel compelled to throw myself into this time of year.  (I bake in the autumn the way birds migrate: I can’t help myself, it seems to be woven into the fabric of my being.)

I love my new environs in Florida, for all of the reasons this place inspires love:  the dolphins I’ve watched in the past week; the great horned owl who graces our backyard; the glistening bay, beach, and boat docks that I walk to with my dog every evening.

But the interminable summer is a little frustrating for a girl who loves four seasons.  So today, I give you this wistful image– the old house in Germany in a tinted Halloween mashup.  Old, creaky, spooky, beautiful . . . and autumnal.

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Boo!

Happy Halloween!!

 

 

* JNW’s Halloween Challenge

Auf Wiedersehen, Deutschland!

This blog has been very quiet lately, but not for lack of stories to tell and a backlog of travel photos to share.  The silence in this space comes from a flurry of activity on every other front of my life.  Call it “moving madness”– boxing up and shipping out my worldly possessions,  crossing t’s and dotting i’s on the papers and accounts that anchored my life in Germany, last minute travels (spoiler: Barcelona pics to follow), finding temporary lodgings, comforting a confused canine friend, and managing the stress of a family in transition and saying goodbye to a fabulous sojourn in Europe.

Madness.  It sinks into the brain and the body, and shorts out all your circuits temporarily.  This morning, I’m coming up for air to post a photo from our last night in the old house on Jakobstrasse.  For two years, it was a crazy, quirky old friend, and we will miss it, despite its many flaws.

I hope to be back online soon and continue sharing bits of our travels and our move experience.  For today, I have only a stollen moment of web-connectivity, so I leave you with this one photo.  A bittersweet goodbye to the house one German man in the village told me they used to call “Villa Sunshine.”
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Jedi Language Master . . . Or Not

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I wrote, but never published, the following post a few weeks ago.  My final German class has now wrapped, and my time in Germany is slipping through my fingers at an alarming rate.  I’m still a thousand miles off the shores of fluency, but I am still bouyed by a sort of wonder at the language.  Das ist mein Schicksal; this is my lot.

Call me Yoda.

I am not wise; I am not green; I am not cute and pointy-eared; I am not short.

But language I do speak,  in foreign and fitful patterns I do.  German is like that– its subjects and verbs bounce around depending on meaning, subordination, etc.  It sounds cute when Yoda does it.  And I actually find it enchanting when German does it–  infuriating, but enchanting.  But this doesn’t help my plight in language class.

We are rapidly moving into our final weeks here in Germany, and I’m still attending German class . . . but not flourishing.  I will make my excuses up front.  Let’s start with my teacher. (She is very nice, but just ill matched to my learning style)

I’m back with my original teacher who is all about book work and learning all declensions, conjugations, variations, grammaticalizations  . . . which is not a real thing, but you get the picture.  I’m stuck back in class with the engineers and their precision-cut cogs of language (if you have no idea what I’m talking about, you are more sane than me look back at my past blog post–here).  This class doesn’t really suit the way I learn, but I’m hanging in there, most days.  (I have been known to play hooky a little.)

Still, the truth is that I am languishing horribly.

I like the word “languish,” it’s kind of visual for me.  I see a boat stuck on a windless part of the sea, which of course is just a few days away from disaster and decay . . .but let’s say the wind eventually picks up, and disaster is averted (happier story).  So, anyway, “languish” means “to lose or lack vitality, to grow weak or feeble.”  And this is me in German class right now, but it occurs to me that the word “languish” sounds like the word “language” if spoken by a drunk person. This somehow makes me feel better.  Like the word was specifically invented for my situation–as if it’s a natural thing to languish in a language when one is somehow lacking in mental power, for whatever reason.  A reason like stress brought on by an impending move.

Or like sitting in a book-learning class with my head down in a page, when I can only absorb words by speaking and hearing and bandying them about like a game. It’s a messy, garbled way to learn, but I’m a messy, garbled person.

I like language– I bloomin’ love language, honestly– but not because of its precision bits.  I love it for the most idiotic, but sonorous, reasons– like the fact that “languish” sounds like a drunkard saying “language.” That makes me happy.

And language makes me happy.

But today I sat in German class, having missed a few classes (for various reasons: some good, some bad, some worse).  I was lost.  And the verbs and nouns were jumping all over the place in sentences–like fleas on a dog’s back–for reasons I couldn’t quite understand.  But I liked it.  It made me laugh.

So there I was, some of my classmates scratching their heads and trying earnestly to grapple with the language, others following dutifully and expertly along, and me–the village idiot–just thinking how cool these slippery constructions were, although I understood them not one bit.

And then, at the end of class, came the best moment, the icing on the cake.  My teacher brandished her eraser and said, “I vill vipe die blackboard.”

My ears were in heaven!  While everyone else noted the homework and closed their books, I struggled to stifle my giggles.   The word-fleas jumped, the teacher “viped avay” at the board, and I just laughed.

danke Master, I am not.  Amused, I am.

 

March Madness, An American Tradition . . .

 

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. . . watched from my German living room.

To my American readers,  March Madness needs no introduction.  To my European readers, a little explanation is in order.  “March Madness” is the moniker given to the American men’s college basketball tournament–the national playoff tournament–which takes place in March each year. (Actually March and April,  but “April Madness” sounds like rubbish.) Emotions run high, brackets are racked/stacked/bet on, parties are held, faces are painted, and sporting arenas are filled to capacity and shaken to their foundation.  It’s a good time.   marchmad

Every year, it’s a good time.

But this year, it feels especially good.  As the whole world knows, it’s an election year in the US of A, and so far it’s been a grueling process that still promises months of gruelishness.  (Is this a word?)

So enter March Madness– all of the rowdy, emotional, high stakes tournament, but with quick resolution and less character assassination.  Oh how our spirits have needed this.  Game on!!

So here I sit, in the Rheinland-Pfalz of Germany, drinking my beer and eating my pretzels and watching this American tradition.  It’s a moveable feast, as so many things are for us unsettled, unseated, or expated folks.  And that adds a layer of the absurd to the already frenzied tournament.  Will I be watching from a face-plant position on my couch at 2 a.m., hollering for my teams between snores?  Will I be sitting in a Spanish Tappas restaurant in a German village and fidgeting uncontrollably, wishing I was in a loud American sports bar with a thousand TV’s blaring out the ballgame? (An atmosphere I usually avoid, but would fly to like a moth to the flame during March Madness.)  These are moments when your Americaness screams out –when the thin veneer of European posh that you’ve tried so hard to develop peels back at lightning speed, and you stand proud for the face-painting, flag waving American sports nut that you are. But ask me about the American elections, and I’ll once again glaze over and pretend, in my pidgin-German, that I have no idea what you are asking me. 

I didn’t attend huge universities, but I often have a horse in the race.  A North Carolina native and daughter of a rabid UNC fan, I always root for the UNC Tarheels.  How do I feel about another North Carolina favorite–Duke University?  Ugh.  As UNC’s nemesis, I have a tough time with that one.  But in these championship games, I’ll root for Duke unless I have strong feelings for the team they are playing.

Which brings me to Yale.  Last night, Yale upset Baylor 79-75, in a game that was pure hustle from start to finish.  And what a finish!  The last 10 seconds were insane–Baylor only trailing by one point for a while, when Yale pulled ahead by 4 in about the last 3 seconds!  But who can track the last few seconds of a game like that?  Lungs screaming, head buzzing, it’s one of those epic moments when the world moves so fast and so slow all at once, you see every millisecond’s play, but later recall only a swirl and flow of arms, legs, net–adrenaline!  Or is that just me?  I saw every second but would be hard pressed to extract the moment by moment play from the emotion that clouds it all.  And that, you know, is the sign of a great game.

But back to the facts. Yale won.  Yale won.  Yale won.  And now Yale will meet Duke in the playoffs.   Yale is out-ranked and out-sized by Duke.  And the whole match has been much maligned and joked about as soon as it was announced.  Twitter is lighting up with jokes, like this:

Should Duke-Yale end in a tie, following will decide winner
1. BMW sprint to nearest J Crew
2. Windsor knot race
3. Sudden death chess match

preppyIn a tournament that hinges on astonishing athletic prowess and grit, these two teams offer a lot of fodder for jokes–too academic, too preppy, too privileged.  These schools have decidely ungritty images.  To have them play each other–just too funny to let it go, right?

But look where they are!  So, pelt me with rotten tomatoes– or funky bowties and textbooks– and let the preppy jokes fly, but I’m screaming loud and long on this game.  Duke looks like the winner based on rank and size, but I’m a Yale Bulldog fan and looking for an upset on this one.  If Yale takes it, you’ll hear me shout from across the ocean.

If Yale doesn’t . . . then my fickle heart will move on  to UNC and I’ll profess my love just as loudly. (If all my teams fail me, I’ll reminisce about  Davidson’s Steph Curry in 2009’s  tournament.) It’s not really a fickle heart, it’s just March Madness.

If only we could wear our political loves so lightly.

*For my European readers out there who may need a full primer on March Madness, you can check out this video-March Madness Explained. 

 

Here Comes Peter Cottontail: Easter Traditions in Germany

Dieser ist die Ostermarkt Sankt Wendel/This is the Easter Market in St. Wendel

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Easter markets are popping up all over Germany, and we visited the market at Sankt Wendel this weekend.  It was busy with market stalls full of painted Easter eggs, wooden Easter crafts, flowers, and jewelry.  There were craft stations for children and food and drink for everyone.  It was a nice day out, especially with the sun shining brighter than it has in many weeks.  Our favorite sights at the market were the Easter Bunny displays and the fantastic Dom (Church) in Sankt Wendel.

DSC_0867The church was the center point of the market festivities, with stalls huddled around her walls.  The photo at left doesn’t do the exterior of the church justice–in the busy, small streets around the church it was hard to get a photo that shows the fantastic double-onion dome (with a third tier “cap” and cross set above the domes) in proper perspective.  This church is stunning.

The interior of the church is equally beautiful. Here are a few photos for you:

The Easter Bunny displays at Sankt Wendel DSC_0887 were lots of fun too–a little whimsy and a lot of artistry.  But, like so many German traditions, these displays got me thinking.  Where did this story of the Easter Bunny get started?  It seems obvious that America inherited its Easter Bunny traditions from Germany, as the Easter Bunny is not ubiquitous in Europe.  In France, for instance, the Easter Bells (Les Cloches), having flown off to Rome in the days before Easter morning, fly back home and bring eggs and chocolates to children.

The Easter Bunny seems to have started out as a German/Lutheran tradition.  Mention of the tradition dates back to texts from the 1600’s, and it does seem that the bunny did more than spoil children with treats.  There was an element of judgement–who had been good and who had been bad?  (There is, in German traditions, always an element of judgement.  If you don’t believe me, check out my past blogpost on St. Nikolaus and his sinister sidekick — Saints and Devils, Fire and Snow.)

DSC_0889But what made the Lutherans think up this magical bunny?  Well, they borrowed from earlier traditions too.  In German, this Easter Bunny is know as the “Osterhase”  (the Easter Hare), and it’s widely accepted that many roots of our present Easter traditions come from pre-Christian traditions.  The goddess Eostre (and her symbolic rabbits) were a focal point for spring fertility rituals.  Fertility, bunnies, eggs–you can certainly see the echoes in present day traditions.

You see the same pattern in Christmas traditions–the Christian holiday did pick up some flavoring from the Roman Saturnalia holiday that came before it.  We’re all magpies in some respect–we incorporate bright scraps we find and fancy here and there, and we add those scraps to our nests.  No holidays, religious or otherwise, spring fully formed from a doctrine or ideology–they incorporate the surrounding culture.  This may seem odd when the surrounding culture is pagan and the newer holiday is Christian, but hearts and minds change slowly, piece by piece, person by person.  Any slow turn of a culture will incorporate what its ancestors held dear, no matter how odd a pairing those ideas and traditions are.  Flying bells?  Easter bunnies?  A little odd if you think about it logically.  But, really, if all of our stories hinged solely on logic, we’d be all out of beauty and mystery. We’d be done for.

Long live the Osterhase!!  Frohe Ostern!  Happy Easter to you!