Up the Hill, Across the Town: Sacre Coeur, Montmartre, Paris

As seen from the roof of the Musee d'Orsay
As seen from the roof of the Musee d’Orsay

The Basilica of the Sacre Coeur, in Montmartre, is one of the most recognizable landmarks in Paris.  This is a little surprising because it is one of the newer landmarks in the city, at just over 100 years old.  (Of course, the same can be said of the Eiffel Tower, which is unquestionably the most recognizable landmark in the city.)  On a recent visit to Paris, I snapped a photo (above) of the grand church from the roof of the Musee d’Orsay–quite a distance away, but there’s the lovely church, majestic atop the hill of Montmartre, demanding to be noticed.

We didn’t make it up the hill to visit Montmartre on this trip, but just looking across the city toward the hill brought back memories of a trip in 2008 when we climbed the stairs of Montmartre with the kids (very young then) and wandered the area.  I recall lots of artists’ stalls, lots of tourists, musicians, and stunning views out over the city.  I also remember setting our young son loose to chase pigeons in one open square, in hopes that he could run some energy out while the rest of us just sat and soaked up the atmosphere.  It was a great place to just hang out and enjoy an afternoon.

Climbing the stairs of Montmartre, 2008
Climbing the stairs of Montmartre, 2008
A stunning photo--not taken by me.  Creative Commons image, "La Basilique du Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre vue de la Tour Saint-Jacques, Paris août 2014" by Yann Caradec from Paris, France - La Basilique du Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre vue de la Tour Saint-Jacques. Licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons - https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:La_Basilique_du_Sacr%C3%A9-C%C5%93ur_de_Montmartre_vue_de_la_Tour_Saint-Jacques,_Paris_ao%C3%BBt_2014.jpg#/media/File:La_Basilique_du_Sacr%C3%A9-C%C5%93ur_de_Montmartre_vue_de_la_Tour_Saint-Jacques,_Paris_ao%C3%BBt_2014.jpg
A stunning photo–not taken by me. Creative Commons image, “La Basilique du Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre vue de la Tour Saint-Jacques, Paris août 2014” by Yann Caradec, Paris, France
Montmartre has an artistic vibe.
Montmartre has an artistic vibe.

 

It's also a good place to let the kids run their energy out!
It’s also a good place to let the kids run their energy out!

 

 

 

 

 

 

I had a lot of fun getting up close and personal with the other sights of Paris this trip . . .but every now and again, I’d look up and see the Sacre Coeur hovering in the distance.  She might have been far up the hill and across the town, but she wasn’t going to let me forget her.

Maybe next visit we’ll drop in on her again.

 

 

Looking Out My Back Door: on Lake Lucerne

DSC_0237
Looking out my backdoor. No, really– the view from my hotel window.

Evidence of travel aside, I am a homebody at heart– a creature of habit, a conscript of cozy.  But travel is glorious too–new sights, new sounds, new smells, new tastes.  When I am lucky enough to marry these things–to thrill to the new while being wrapped in a happy blanket of cozy– that is a joyful day.  A recent trip to Lake Lucerne in Switzerland delighted me with just that experience.  Here are a few photos and brief thoughts on the stay.

Night begins to fall on Lake Lucerne, by our hotel in Weggis
Night begins to fall on Lake Lucerne– by our hotel in Weggis
Bright buildings and green hills.
Bright buildings and green hills.

 

A cozy spot to rest at the foot of the Alps.
A cozy spot to rest at the foot of the Alps.
In the city of Lucerne
In the city of Lucerne
Lovely Lake Lucerne and the Alps
Lovely Lake Lucerne and the Alps

We drove from Germany to Luzern/Lucerne, and we spent our first day wandering around that town and drinking in her beauty.  From Lucerne, we drove a short distance around the lake until we came to Weggis, where we set up camp for a few days.  Our hotel was small and comfortable, and about as hospitable as any place I’ve ever been.  The staff made us hot cocoa, coffee, or ice cream whenever we wanted (Yes, please!), and the morning breakfast was taken in a room that reminded me so much of old university or church spaces in England.  Absolutely charming.

After watching the sun set on the lake and tucking in for a good night’s sleep, we got up to tackle a hike to the summit of Mt. Riggi the next day.  The weather was accommodating, and the views from the summit (as well as all along the hike) were fantastic!  I’ve posted some photos from Rigi already, and I’m sure more will come in the days ahead.

That night we had dinner in Weggis and tucked in for another good night’s sleep, nestled cozily in the comfiest bed, in the friendliest hotel, in the prettiest little town, around a magical sparkling lake, in the heart of the world’s most picturesque mountains.

As John Fogerty once said, “Bother me tomorrow; today I’ll buy no sorrow.  .  . Doo, doo,  doo lookin’ out my backdoor.”

Friday in the Frame: Pont Neuf, Paris

The Pont Neuf, Paris.  June 2015
The Pont Neuf, Paris. June 2015

The Pont Neuf (“New Bridge”) is the oldest standing bridge in Paris.  How’s that for a paradox?  It made sense at one time . . . a long, long time ago.   It was built in the late 1500’s/early 1600’s– and still looks spry for an old girl.  Yes, there have been nips and tucks, but the bone structure remains the same as far as I know.

If the structure of the bridge is little changed by time, what about the “life” and function of the bridge?   It’s always held a central role in the city, but it was once a very dangerous place, replete with thieves and murderers.   In fact, it was replete with everything: vendors, performers, prostitutes, con artists, pickpockets, artists, families . . .all the best and worst of Paris.  It was the best of mimes, it was the worst of mimes.  (Oh, so sorry–I didn’t want to say it, but I couldn’t stop myself.)

I remember reading (somewhere) that the Pont Neuf once had its own gallows right there on the bridge.  That’s hard to imagine today, when you see her cleaned up and looking stunning, but I’d wager that at least a few of those surly pickpockets are still around.  We haven’t changed that much over time, and, as this bridge reminds us, “everything old is neuf again.”