Chicago: Bean There . . .

Done that?  You can’t say that about a town like Chicago, can you?  You’re never really done with it– too much to see, to do, to take in.  Always changing, always jumping.  Nope, “been there” maybe, but “done that” doesn’t cut it.

And now for the pun:

This is the Chicago Bean.

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It’s fondly called the Bean,  but really it’s  Cloud Gate by artist Anish Kapoor.    Dating to 2006, this sculpture stands in Millennium Park and is a crowd pleaser!  It is visually stunning, but it’s also entertaining.  The polished surface reflects the cityscape in a fabulous fish-eye way.

And if that’s not interesting enough for all of us self-absorbed earthlings, it reflects us!   You can dance, goof around, and posture, and you are reflected in the bean.  You can even take a picture of yourself taking a picture of yourself.

More interesting, though, is the way it reflects the larger movements of the people, the community around it.  We were in Chicago this past weekend while a weekend long Jazz Fest was going on in Millennium Park, and the music and the constant movement provided a fascinating “urban dance” in the polished surface of the Bean.   The people were a constant swirl, while the buildings stood static . . . but not so static.

The Bean buildings vs the real buildings. One set swings with the jazz, the other stands tall and serious.
The Bean buildings vs the real buildings. One set swings with the jazz, the other stands tall and serious.

Under the spell of the Bean and the jazz,  the buildings looked like they were swaying with the music too.   And why not– a sunny day in the park in Chicago will do that for you.

 

Our trip to Chicago was a spur of the moment thing– missing our travels and bracing for a possible hurricane in Florida, we decided to book a flight to Chicago and get the heck out of Dodge.  A little impulsive; a lot fun.

Chicago is a fantastic city.  I lived there for about two and a half years in the early/mid 90’s, and I hadn’t been back since, so I was really excited about this trip.

Had I forgotten my way around the city in the intervening decades?  A bit. . . but maps and cabbies solved that problem.  And, besides, a weekend trip to Chicago only leaves you time for the essentials:  strolls along the River Walk, a visit to the Art Institute, and shows at The Second City.  (And, as an added perk for us, a Jazz Fest.)

I’ll probably post more on Chicago in the weeks ahead, but here are some photos to whet your appetite.

First, a collage of city scapes:

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Second . . . city.  The stage at Second City (proving grounds for John Belushi,  Gilda Radnor, Steve Carrel, Tina Fey, Steven Colbert, Dan Aykroyd, Peter Boyle, Chris Farley, John Candy, Mike Myers . . . would it be easier to list comedians who didn’t get there start here?)

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The improv stage at Second City–the first show we took in.

More tidbits on Chicago in the weeks ahead.  For now, so long, and all that jazz. . .

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Throwback Thursday: Van Gogh

Café Terrace at Night

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Left: Van Gogh’s Café Terrace at Night (on Place du Forum)  Arles, 1888

Right:  Same spot,  ‘Le Café La Nuit’ on Place du Forum in daylight, Arles, 2016

The spot may be less picturesque on a bright spring morning in 2016, but it’s still vibrant enough to cast its light into the darker streets.  Notice the yellow shirt on the passerby?  In my mind, it’s really a plain white tee that takes the gold cast once he steps within the fabled space of the Café Terrace .  After he strolls on past,  it resumes its ho-hum identity as a plain white tee.  (How could it possibly be otherwise?)

A little Van Gogh magic– it’s powerful stuff.

 

Schonbrunn Palace, Vienna

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Today’s travel memory is brought to you by summertime heat–days that start out hot, become alarmingly hotter, and end in your body, bones and all, reduced to a puddle on the asphalt.  If this sounds like the beginning of another post on my new home in Florida . . . oddly enough, it isn’t.  Today’s memory is from  Schloss Schonbrunn (Schonbrunn Palace), in Vienna, Austria.    It was built in the 17th and 18th centuries, modified in the 19th century, and partially reconstructed after WWII (the palace took a direct hit in 1945)– so it is, in every sense, “one for the ages.”

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Emperor Leopold I had planned to build a palace that would rival, or surpass, schonbrunnVersailles.  At the end of the day, Schonbrunn did not meet that goal, but its elegant lines and interiors still impress.  The Palace has over 1400 rooms, but only 30-40 are opened for touring.

We visited on an outrageously hot day in July of 2015, when the mercury was hovering at around 100 degrees Fahrenheit.  We toured the inside of the palace, which was impressive–but we were wilting in the un-airconditioned and little-ventilated space, along with a throng of fellow tourists, so our photos skew toward views of the garden, where at least we could catch a slight breeze.  (Two days later, we’d find ourselves in Budapest and standing under the nozzles of misting trucks, brought out to offer relief from the extreme heat– relief that’s hard to come by in a region that so rarely deals with this sort of heat, and where air conditioning is the exception to the rule.)

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DSC_0234The grounds are massive, and they boast not only beautifully manicured gardens, but plenty of shady spots for sitting, and a maze for your children (or you!) to test your wits in.  (Being somewhat witless, and horrifically directionally challenged, I sent the children in ahead of me and then wandered in shady patches and took photographs.)  DSC_0243

Schonbrunn is a very popular tourist destination, so if you go in the summer, you might consider purchasing tickets online ahead of time to avoid lines.  Schonbrunn also hosts many concert series and has a zoo on its grounds, so there is lots to do.   Plan on spending at least half a day there (better still, a whole day).

Finally, I’ll leave you with one of my favorite photos from the day: a bicycle in the gardens.  Not sure why I love this photo so– maybe it brings a human scale to a massive palace and grounds, or simply offers a sense of adventure and movement (travel!)  to a formal landscape.
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